Friday, July 18, 2008
Day exploring Singapore.
Amazed how clean the place is, lots of greenery too – Palms and plants everywhere. Wandered around Little India –so colourful with fruit and vegetable stalls – amazing stuff for sale. Lots of bazaars and street sellers. Found a fabric shop and rene bought me a sari…. Will have to wait til we’re home to try that on – there’s barely room to swing a cat in the cabin let alone wrap a sari!! Found China town and a catholic church. The metro is clean and fast here, although we did lots of walking between stops! Even found a car boot sale – same old junk as back home plus fake rolex watches! We were really tired by nightfall but were determined to find Raffles Hotel! Eventually, after walking around it several times without realising it, we found the front entrance! Took the mandatory photos and had a wander around inside. It’s all been renovated. Like most of the Singapore it’s a little too perfect, a little sterile even. Anyway we can tick that destination off our list. We're glad we saw a few of the sights but not sure we'd want to return!
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
I bet you all think we're just lazing on a beach, but....
...no chance! Plus my tan is fading!! I'm wearing more clothes here than I would on a hot day in Europe. Dress code is stricter here. You can spot the tourists by their dress - shorts and strppy tops - the locals get a little offended.
ok, quick round up of recent activities:
Tues 8th July
Went with Fe to meet her fiend Mary (they were both at same teacher training college), and Marys sister Margaret..
Stopped off at roadside chinese restaurant where Rene and Fe had large bowls of Fried Tom yam and Prawn Mee Sup. Mmm yummy - if you can manage that for brekkers?! Me, I stuck to a mug of Kopi (Thick black Chinese coffee floating on half an inch of condensed milk!) The two of them took pity on me and called in to a chinese coffee shop so I could grab 'Pau' (steamed bread with black bean gooey stuff inside)
Arriving at Mary's we were offered the dreaded Durian fruit. We've seen (and smelt) this weird fruit many times and managed til now to avoid actaully putting it in our mouths. Rene says it smells like drains and I'd agree, adding 'putrid' to the description. It's a very spiny fruit anything from 8" to 2 feet long and it exudes a very dodgy odour. A Seasonal fruit, people say you either love it or hate it (bit like Marmite I suppose!) Fe's daughter wont allow it in the house, so Fe and her granddaughter eat it at the market! One of the lads at the backpackers lodge told us how he used to jelp his grandfather collect his durian. they had to wear hard hats as it's dangerous if they fall on your head! Much ought after, they would stay in the forest to protect the ripened fruits from local robbers!
This is one strange fruit, and now we're backed into a corner.... we have to try it! Ignoring the smell I picked up a slimy piece of fruit and bit off a piece. OMG it was re volting - handd the rest to Rene who downed it and managed a second one!
Durian experience over amid peals of laughter from Fe and Mary (the latter said she was relieved we didn't like it - there was more left for her) we were then invited to feed the deer....
Mary joined us on our onward journey to Margarets... over the Tamperuli bridge built in colonial times.... upwards to a house on a hill with 360 degree views across to the sea, the mountain of Mt Kinabalu (hidden in the clouds) and the forests of Sabah - beautiful, breathtaking.... I was tld I'd need to be up early next morning to catch the mountain before the clouds hid it again...
ok, quick round up of recent activities:
Tues 8th July
Went with Fe to meet her fiend Mary (they were both at same teacher training college), and Marys sister Margaret..
Stopped off at roadside chinese restaurant where Rene and Fe had large bowls of Fried Tom yam and Prawn Mee Sup. Mmm yummy - if you can manage that for brekkers?! Me, I stuck to a mug of Kopi (Thick black Chinese coffee floating on half an inch of condensed milk!) The two of them took pity on me and called in to a chinese coffee shop so I could grab 'Pau' (steamed bread with black bean gooey stuff inside)
Arriving at Mary's we were offered the dreaded Durian fruit. We've seen (and smelt) this weird fruit many times and managed til now to avoid actaully putting it in our mouths. Rene says it smells like drains and I'd agree, adding 'putrid' to the description. It's a very spiny fruit anything from 8" to 2 feet long and it exudes a very dodgy odour. A Seasonal fruit, people say you either love it or hate it (bit like Marmite I suppose!) Fe's daughter wont allow it in the house, so Fe and her granddaughter eat it at the market! One of the lads at the backpackers lodge told us how he used to jelp his grandfather collect his durian. they had to wear hard hats as it's dangerous if they fall on your head! Much ought after, they would stay in the forest to protect the ripened fruits from local robbers!
This is one strange fruit, and now we're backed into a corner.... we have to try it! Ignoring the smell I picked up a slimy piece of fruit and bit off a piece. OMG it was re volting - handd the rest to Rene who downed it and managed a second one!
Durian experience over amid peals of laughter from Fe and Mary (the latter said she was relieved we didn't like it - there was more left for her) we were then invited to feed the deer....
Mary joined us on our onward journey to Margarets... over the Tamperuli bridge built in colonial times.... upwards to a house on a hill with 360 degree views across to the sea, the mountain of Mt Kinabalu (hidden in the clouds) and the forests of Sabah - beautiful, breathtaking.... I was tld I'd need to be up early next morning to catch the mountain before the clouds hid it again...
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Here, there and everywhere...
Mmm, so much for the plans we had, to quietly pore over the world map and decide on our route.... Our feet have hardly touched the ground in the past week.
Visited Father Deposte. The last of the 'Mill Hill Fathers' who brought catholicism to this area. he said it was the first time that someone (Rene) from Mill Hill, London had visited him. 88 years old and as sharp as they come, his memory was faultless.
Visited the first church built by the Mill Hill Fathers in Sabah - St Micheal's
A trip to an orchid grower... we thought it was just a nursery, not so - the sales of the dendrobium hybrids funds their work in conserving Borneo's orchids and we had a guided tour around the site to see the native species. Judith our guide patiently sat with me and the camera afterwards and told me the names of each of the flowers I had photographed...
Crossed the Tamparuli River, where two soldiers saved the life of a local woman in a flood - and drowned themselves...
Up at 5am for mass at St Micheals, then met up with Anthony Yan whos brother builds boats.... had breakfast - noodles with fried egg (???) Anthony took us out for the day, not only to his brother's boatyard but also to look at tourism development in the local area. We walked through two developments. It was weird - we could have been anywhere in the world.... the architecture doesn't reflect local traditions - in fact we have since heard that everything was shipped in from Bali! we named them 'Touristville A and B' I guess Sabah is just the latest in a long line of Dominican Republic/Maldives/Seychelles Touristvilles Wonder if the guests actually see anything of local life or even want to?! Ironically, the local people tell us that the two 'paradise' beach resorts we saw both have very dangerous rip currents. One of the beaches we saw was a popular public beach, before the developers moved in!
check em out here: http://www.nexusresort.com/new/index.html
http://www.malaysia-hotels.net/hotels/rasariakk/
The boatyard makes catamarans... and dragon boats. On reflection, we think we'll stick with the Amel Sharki
http://www.amel.fr/en/pages-amel/sharki-photos-plans.htm
http://www.amel.fr/en/pages-amel/sharki.htm
Ate Tuaran Mee - in Tuaran, walked across a footbridge - a modern version of a ropebridge. very bouncy and very very iffy - it's the only way to get to the village on foot....
Finished our day with a visit to Kinsom waterfall, truly beautiful... Fe's last visit was 40 years ago when she took a group of schoolkids. She said that in those days, there was no road so it took them about four hours to get there and there was lots of wildlife. It took us 2 minutes to get there from the carpark and we saw one frog, one butterfly, and we collected a bag of rubbish, which we put into the rubbish bin - 6 paces away.
Have taken 1600 photographs so far, but the connections are slow and unreliable, so uploading is a real pain.
What else have we been up to? Traipsing around farmers markets.... wow, Weird Veg Inc. and namethatodour.com. Take a look at the ladies who graciously allowed me to photograph them....
Watching the caterpillers in Fe's garden - in 10 days they have doubled from 2"x 1/2" to 4"long and 1" wide -bright green with white spikes...
Got some great shots of the tree frogs and chamaeleons - just love those little critters... have NOT bothered to record the cockroaches.
Last night, walked up the lane to Edwin and Clementine's house for dinner. Edwin showed us his collection of plants to cure all ailments from high blood pressure to cancer.... and he keeps sheep! The flying ants were out in force on ou return to Fe's. Very dark and lots of barking dogs, croaking frogs, weird insect noises.....
This morning, up at 6am to catch the minibus (the driver rents a house down Fe's drive) into Kota Kinabalu. Walked through the Sunday market which sells everything from Tourist tut to herbal remedies, live fish and animals, weird veg, reflexology, music cd's, dried fish (wto.com) then caught the bus for 9am mass in english at the cathedral (full to bursting) brunch at the golf club with Jane and Peter, chinese 'pau' (scrumptious baked bread filled with coconut stuff) washed down with chinese coffee, thick, black and sweet floating on top of half an inch of condensed milk..... mmmm
This afternoon, we met up with Anthony at the Kinabalu Yacht Club. it's a small club, full of local people. In the 50's it was a hang out for ex-pats - Anthony can remember being chased away as a child! Met a guy from Hull - been here since the 70's!
It's been very interesting hearing our new friends talk of their culture and childhood experiences:
Working in the paddy fields... sent out each morning to catch frogs in the paddy fields ("I had to carefully part the rice and catch the frogs or we didn't have anything to eat", searching the forest for food... sole responsibilty for her baby brother - she was busy and he fell out of the house (on stilts) so after that she carried him everywhere she went. She was 6 years old.
Another friend was sponsored by the Peace Corps to go to America at age 14. Imagine the cultural shock - from Kadazan village life to wealthy American Wisconsin family. She came back to Sabah when she was 18.
Both these women have promised me they'll write about their early lives. They have seen such changes in the past 50-60years.
Anthony is explaining to Rene about the ethnic mix of Borneo, so here goes....
In Sabah, Chinese brought in by British to work on Estates. Before independance, the Chinese began to set up businesses, there were tensions between the chinese and the 'locals' because the chinese were more economically motivated than the locals. Many chinese who started as coolies, worked hard to then open their own businesses. This is evident in the Town, most of the businesses are chinese owned. Happily, now, there is full integration - although some do say there are still those who are resentful.
Indigenous Sabahans: Kadazan - west coast and interior, Suluk - east coast, Bajau - Northern
Sarawakans Iban and Dayaks.
Kalimantan (Indonesia) the indigenous people were pushed out of their territory by another, more 'economically motivated' group so the 'natives' chopped their heads off.
the head hunters? Well we haven't met any (we don't think we have anyway) it was the tradition for a man wishing to marry, to prove his 'manhood' and his ability to support a family by going out into the forest and bringing back a head.
On that note, with a battery low warning, I close....
Visited Father Deposte. The last of the 'Mill Hill Fathers' who brought catholicism to this area. he said it was the first time that someone (Rene) from Mill Hill, London had visited him. 88 years old and as sharp as they come, his memory was faultless.
Visited the first church built by the Mill Hill Fathers in Sabah - St Micheal's
A trip to an orchid grower... we thought it was just a nursery, not so - the sales of the dendrobium hybrids funds their work in conserving Borneo's orchids and we had a guided tour around the site to see the native species. Judith our guide patiently sat with me and the camera afterwards and told me the names of each of the flowers I had photographed...
Crossed the Tamparuli River, where two soldiers saved the life of a local woman in a flood - and drowned themselves...
Up at 5am for mass at St Micheals, then met up with Anthony Yan whos brother builds boats.... had breakfast - noodles with fried egg (???) Anthony took us out for the day, not only to his brother's boatyard but also to look at tourism development in the local area. We walked through two developments. It was weird - we could have been anywhere in the world.... the architecture doesn't reflect local traditions - in fact we have since heard that everything was shipped in from Bali! we named them 'Touristville A and B' I guess Sabah is just the latest in a long line of Dominican Republic/Maldives/Seychelles Touristvilles Wonder if the guests actually see anything of local life or even want to?! Ironically, the local people tell us that the two 'paradise' beach resorts we saw both have very dangerous rip currents. One of the beaches we saw was a popular public beach, before the developers moved in!
check em out here: http://www.nexusresort.com/new/index.html
http://www.malaysia-hotels.net/hotels/rasariakk/
The boatyard makes catamarans... and dragon boats. On reflection, we think we'll stick with the Amel Sharki
http://www.amel.fr/en/pages-amel/sharki-photos-plans.htm
http://www.amel.fr/en/pages-amel/sharki.htm
Ate Tuaran Mee - in Tuaran, walked across a footbridge - a modern version of a ropebridge. very bouncy and very very iffy - it's the only way to get to the village on foot....
Finished our day with a visit to Kinsom waterfall, truly beautiful... Fe's last visit was 40 years ago when she took a group of schoolkids. She said that in those days, there was no road so it took them about four hours to get there and there was lots of wildlife. It took us 2 minutes to get there from the carpark and we saw one frog, one butterfly, and we collected a bag of rubbish, which we put into the rubbish bin - 6 paces away.
Have taken 1600 photographs so far, but the connections are slow and unreliable, so uploading is a real pain.
What else have we been up to? Traipsing around farmers markets.... wow, Weird Veg Inc. and namethatodour.com. Take a look at the ladies who graciously allowed me to photograph them....
Watching the caterpillers in Fe's garden - in 10 days they have doubled from 2"x 1/2" to 4"long and 1" wide -bright green with white spikes...
Got some great shots of the tree frogs and chamaeleons - just love those little critters... have NOT bothered to record the cockroaches.
Last night, walked up the lane to Edwin and Clementine's house for dinner. Edwin showed us his collection of plants to cure all ailments from high blood pressure to cancer.... and he keeps sheep! The flying ants were out in force on ou return to Fe's. Very dark and lots of barking dogs, croaking frogs, weird insect noises.....
This morning, up at 6am to catch the minibus (the driver rents a house down Fe's drive) into Kota Kinabalu. Walked through the Sunday market which sells everything from Tourist tut to herbal remedies, live fish and animals, weird veg, reflexology, music cd's, dried fish (wto.com) then caught the bus for 9am mass in english at the cathedral (full to bursting) brunch at the golf club with Jane and Peter, chinese 'pau' (scrumptious baked bread filled with coconut stuff) washed down with chinese coffee, thick, black and sweet floating on top of half an inch of condensed milk..... mmmm
This afternoon, we met up with Anthony at the Kinabalu Yacht Club. it's a small club, full of local people. In the 50's it was a hang out for ex-pats - Anthony can remember being chased away as a child! Met a guy from Hull - been here since the 70's!
It's been very interesting hearing our new friends talk of their culture and childhood experiences:
Working in the paddy fields... sent out each morning to catch frogs in the paddy fields ("I had to carefully part the rice and catch the frogs or we didn't have anything to eat", searching the forest for food... sole responsibilty for her baby brother - she was busy and he fell out of the house (on stilts) so after that she carried him everywhere she went. She was 6 years old.
Another friend was sponsored by the Peace Corps to go to America at age 14. Imagine the cultural shock - from Kadazan village life to wealthy American Wisconsin family. She came back to Sabah when she was 18.
Both these women have promised me they'll write about their early lives. They have seen such changes in the past 50-60years.
Anthony is explaining to Rene about the ethnic mix of Borneo, so here goes....
In Sabah, Chinese brought in by British to work on Estates. Before independance, the Chinese began to set up businesses, there were tensions between the chinese and the 'locals' because the chinese were more economically motivated than the locals. Many chinese who started as coolies, worked hard to then open their own businesses. This is evident in the Town, most of the businesses are chinese owned. Happily, now, there is full integration - although some do say there are still those who are resentful.
Indigenous Sabahans: Kadazan - west coast and interior, Suluk - east coast, Bajau - Northern
Sarawakans Iban and Dayaks.
Kalimantan (Indonesia) the indigenous people were pushed out of their territory by another, more 'economically motivated' group so the 'natives' chopped their heads off.
the head hunters? Well we haven't met any (we don't think we have anyway) it was the tradition for a man wishing to marry, to prove his 'manhood' and his ability to support a family by going out into the forest and bringing back a head.
On that note, with a battery low warning, I close....
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Enjoying the quiet...
We're now staying in a little village (Kampung Kolopis) near Kota Kinabalu. At night just the sounds of the insects and the frogs.... it's peaceful here and Fe has a wonderful garden - full of european houseplants! Their outdoor plants that grow like weeds are the plants we pay a fortune for back home, to put in our homes!
We're hoping to put together our round the world tour from here as we have the time and the space to spread out our maps.
Today we have been at Jane and Peters where we have made apple pies and a roast dinner. I've left Rene in the kitchen with a bevvy of local ladies as he teaches them all about roast lamb and mint sauce! I should get back now, before I'm missed, just needed to check the emails and add a few words here! The people we've met here in Sabah are generous, kind and warmhearted, they've taken us into their homes and their hearts. We are so fortunate and count our blessings every day!
We're hoping to put together our round the world tour from here as we have the time and the space to spread out our maps.
Today we have been at Jane and Peters where we have made apple pies and a roast dinner. I've left Rene in the kitchen with a bevvy of local ladies as he teaches them all about roast lamb and mint sauce! I should get back now, before I'm missed, just needed to check the emails and add a few words here! The people we've met here in Sabah are generous, kind and warmhearted, they've taken us into their homes and their hearts. We are so fortunate and count our blessings every day!
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Moving on again..
Today, we leave the Borneo Beachouse, to stay a week with Fe, a friend of Janes, in a little village (Kampung) just outside the city. She has a lovely garden, (with bananas and pineapples) and I'm hoping to do some painting as well as finish the ditty bag I started on the boat. We are both looking forward to doing some walking locally. The village has no restaurants, bars or shops and no internet connection!!
I know, i'm way behind with the blog - there are so many distractions here and I've run out of time. Will try to catch you up when we come into the city and find an internet cafe!
I know, i'm way behind with the blog - there are so many distractions here and I've run out of time. Will try to catch you up when we come into the city and find an internet cafe!
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Jumped Ship!
As dawn broke, we sailed through the channel leading into Kota Kinabalu. Made our way to Sutera Harbour Marina. http://www.suteraharbour.com/marina.php Very nice marina - very clean, in fact the water looks like an aquarium - many tropical fish. This harbour will only allow boats in that have black water tanks for toilet waste. Shame more don't demand them - even the marinas that are tidal and get washed through daily can't flush out all the rubbish. The facilities here are very good - staff are attentive and very well trained, nothing is too much trouble.
We're hoping that we can have a break from cooking and washing up whilst we're here.
My question to Jon - "Can I presume rene and I are off the hook as far as the cooking is concerned whilst we're in the marina" did not meet with a 'yes' so to cut a long story short, we'll be leaving. We've learned a lot from Drew who has been so generous with his knowledge, but it's just not a lot of fun too much of the time. We're too old to be walking around on eggshells wondering what sort of mood Jon's in today. It turns out that we are not the first (or second) crew to jump ship. Says it all.
Now that the decision is made we are relieved and looking forward to spending a couple of weeks exploring locally and then return early.
Had a big clear out of our clothes and stuff - filled a bin bag! Our bags don't appear to be that mush lighter though!
Tomorrow we'll go with Jon to sort out the immigration/passport stuff and then we're off!!
We're hoping that we can have a break from cooking and washing up whilst we're here.
My question to Jon - "Can I presume rene and I are off the hook as far as the cooking is concerned whilst we're in the marina" did not meet with a 'yes' so to cut a long story short, we'll be leaving. We've learned a lot from Drew who has been so generous with his knowledge, but it's just not a lot of fun too much of the time. We're too old to be walking around on eggshells wondering what sort of mood Jon's in today. It turns out that we are not the first (or second) crew to jump ship. Says it all.
Now that the decision is made we are relieved and looking forward to spending a couple of weeks exploring locally and then return early.
Had a big clear out of our clothes and stuff - filled a bin bag! Our bags don't appear to be that mush lighter though!
Tomorrow we'll go with Jon to sort out the immigration/passport stuff and then we're off!!
Friday, May 23, 2008
Anambas islands
Friday 23rd Rene photographed porpoises on the bow and retrieved a dead flying fish off the deck – not much of a meal on it so threw it back! by early evening we’re anchoring off Indonesian island of Anak, part of the Anambas group. Saw giant turtles in the bay - well their heads and feet - or do they have flippers??!
A little fishing boat approached with two young indonesian fishermen aboard we don't speak indonesian and they don't speak english (or french) we sign languaged "have you got any fish for sale?" they opened up their coolbox one snapper and some tuna on ice - looked good but Drew declined - apparently you need to gut tuna quickly after it's caught or it tastes metallic from the blood in the flesh - we're learning all the time!!
Jon, Drew and I went ashore taking a look at the reef along the way - lots of sombre coloured coral - Drew disappointed not to see more colours - says it's either recovering from pollution or under threat. Saw a four legged blue starfish and some parrotfish, so not too disappointed! Collected a few pieces of coral - there was tons of it washed up and bleached white on shore. Saw turtle trails and the depressions where they nest - also saw the monitor lizard trails too - apparently they enjoy turtle eggs!
That night I saw torchlights scanning along the beaches onshore - I'd like to believe that it wasn't turtle nest raiders...
A little fishing boat approached with two young indonesian fishermen aboard we don't speak indonesian and they don't speak english (or french) we sign languaged "have you got any fish for sale?" they opened up their coolbox one snapper and some tuna on ice - looked good but Drew declined - apparently you need to gut tuna quickly after it's caught or it tastes metallic from the blood in the flesh - we're learning all the time!!
Jon, Drew and I went ashore taking a look at the reef along the way - lots of sombre coloured coral - Drew disappointed not to see more colours - says it's either recovering from pollution or under threat. Saw a four legged blue starfish and some parrotfish, so not too disappointed! Collected a few pieces of coral - there was tons of it washed up and bleached white on shore. Saw turtle trails and the depressions where they nest - also saw the monitor lizard trails too - apparently they enjoy turtle eggs!
That night I saw torchlights scanning along the beaches onshore - I'd like to believe that it wasn't turtle nest raiders...
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Tioman
Tuesday 20th Arrived Tioman Island about midday. Anchored in the bay as the marina looks a bit difficult to get into ... I tried snorkelling but didn’t like it - The reef is quite beautiful and the fish are all shapes and sizes, but I just can’t do it… everytime I put my face in the water I panic! Maybe if I had my feet on terra firma? Drew put on his scuba gear and went down to check the hull and keel for damage – some cracking of fibreglass where we hit the wreck (?) It’s minor stuff but the boat will need to be hauled out at some point for repair.
Walking to and from the port offices we passed shacks and dwellings that I’m sure will be long gone by the time we return here in our own boat. There’s a lot of tourist development going on, alongside the simplicity of island life. I wonder what we’ll see here on our return?
Massive downpour in the evening– not seen rain like that since Florida and an approaching hurricane! Happily, not a hurricane or cyclone here. Dined well at a small Chinese restaurant. and returned to the boat by dinghy. if the link works, this where we are: http://wikimapia.org/#lat=2.7894248&lon=104.128418&z=7&l=0&m=a&v=2
Wednesday 21st Tioman. Chilled out for the day. rene drew and I went ashore to eat. Drew’s a nice guy and has many an entertaining tale to tell. We're really learning a lot from him. Jon's OK when he's in a good mood, the rest of the time he tends to be monosyllabic and short tempered. Wonder how long we'll put up with it?
Thursday 22nd Tioman. Caught up with some boat jobs early in the day before the heat set in. 5pm we left the anchorage for the passage to Borneo. 4 hour watches for us all -full moon tonight and starry skies, lots of traffic around...
Walking to and from the port offices we passed shacks and dwellings that I’m sure will be long gone by the time we return here in our own boat. There’s a lot of tourist development going on, alongside the simplicity of island life. I wonder what we’ll see here on our return?
Massive downpour in the evening– not seen rain like that since Florida and an approaching hurricane! Happily, not a hurricane or cyclone here. Dined well at a small Chinese restaurant. and returned to the boat by dinghy. if the link works, this where we are: http://wikimapia.org/#lat=2.7894248&lon=104.128418&z=7&l=0&m=a&v=2
Wednesday 21st Tioman. Chilled out for the day. rene drew and I went ashore to eat. Drew’s a nice guy and has many an entertaining tale to tell. We're really learning a lot from him. Jon's OK when he's in a good mood, the rest of the time he tends to be monosyllabic and short tempered. Wonder how long we'll put up with it?
Thursday 22nd Tioman. Caught up with some boat jobs early in the day before the heat set in. 5pm we left the anchorage for the passage to Borneo. 4 hour watches for us all -full moon tonight and starry skies, lots of traffic around...
Monday, May 19, 2008
Back to sea
Left Singapore for the Malaysian Island of Tioman. I took my malaria tablet on an empty stomach and slept most of the day! Up most of the night as a result, but enjoyed the stars and taking the helm. Rene tells me that during the day, the wind was blowing from the stern – I missed Rallentando ‘goose-winging’
I definitely prefer sailing at night - it's a bit cooler, and I do enjoy spotting the lights of the boats and ships around us... not sure if I'll like it as much when I'm on my own and it's just rene sleeping below! The ipod is useful - i'm catching up on the BBC podcasts I downloaded for rene, and the chillout music is appropriate under the stars! When we're motor sailing, the autohelm is on, so we can 'relax' with the binoculars - under sail one of us is helming (steering!)
The wind so far has been really disappointing, not strong enough or hitting us from the wrong direction....
I definitely prefer sailing at night - it's a bit cooler, and I do enjoy spotting the lights of the boats and ships around us... not sure if I'll like it as much when I'm on my own and it's just rene sleeping below! The ipod is useful - i'm catching up on the BBC podcasts I downloaded for rene, and the chillout music is appropriate under the stars! When we're motor sailing, the autohelm is on, so we can 'relax' with the binoculars - under sail one of us is helming (steering!)
The wind so far has been really disappointing, not strong enough or hitting us from the wrong direction....
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Singapore
You should take a look at the marina we're in http://www.one15marina.com/new/index.htm it costs $55,880 to join - but you can't because there's a waiting list. 3 Ferraris parked outside this afternoon and a Maserati passed us as we left to find somewhere to eat!! It's costing 12.50£ per night to 'park' here and we get the run of the facilities tehe! The website doesn't really do it justice although it's verbose ( http://www.one15marina.com/new/abt_press.htm ) -I'm going to take some pictures tomorrow... might get them uploaded tomorrow night.
The marina is on the island of Sentosa connected to singapore by road, monorail and cable car (http://www.sentosa.com.sg/) - it's one big bloody theme park I tell you it's totally bizarre... we took the shuttle bus across the bridge onto mainland singapore and went to find an atm in the shopping mall where the bus dropped us.... talk about shop till you drop... it's massive ... and no money in the HSBC atm!!! had to find another.
rene, drew and I found a 'Carnivores' restaurant - Brazilian Buffet theme restaurant where you help yourself to salads and vegetable dishes and then a team of chefs circulate around the restaurant with massive carving knives and chunks of meat on 2' long skewers. They carve it straight onto your plate. Each of us was issued with a round disc - green side up 'yes please' to more meat and red side up 'no thanks'. regardless of what your colour was, they just kept offering more!! When the maitre d' saw how little we were drinking, he hurried us on to the chocolate fondu and 'please pay the bill my cash desk is closing' - great meal for about 12 quid each!! We then have to find our way back to the marina.... rene spots a monorail and just HAS to take a ride. Luckily it was going in the direction of the island - unluckily, the taxi rank at its final destination was short of taxis. drew decided to head back on the monorail to where we'd come from and join the queue there for a taxi there. meanwhile rene and I decided to get a bit nearer the marina by taking a bus and then walking the rest of the way... as it happened, the bus driver took pity on us and dropped us a bit nearer and a taxi with a pick up at the marina stopped to take us. we got back before drew!
rene crashed out and I came up to the flashy bistro to check the emails as i can't get a signal onboard. it's now 1.45am and I should head back! Tomorrow is sightseeing day...
Well that's it so far - we're not going to Batang it was actually Batam indonesia but the marina is closed for dredging!! so, heading around the coast to somewhere else - malaysian island of tiaman?? then across to Borneo after a couple of days. That'll take a week of sailing - our first long passage and hopefully the wind will be with us - it's been on the nose most of our journey so far so we've been motoring with the sails up ocasionally. Getting down here took 3 night passages and i'll catch you up with that when I connect tomorrow if time allows. The days are flying by but I'm keeping a written log!
Hope you're all well wherever you are!
The marina is on the island of Sentosa connected to singapore by road, monorail and cable car (http://www.sentosa.com.sg/) - it's one big bloody theme park I tell you it's totally bizarre... we took the shuttle bus across the bridge onto mainland singapore and went to find an atm in the shopping mall where the bus dropped us.... talk about shop till you drop... it's massive ... and no money in the HSBC atm!!! had to find another.
rene, drew and I found a 'Carnivores' restaurant - Brazilian Buffet theme restaurant where you help yourself to salads and vegetable dishes and then a team of chefs circulate around the restaurant with massive carving knives and chunks of meat on 2' long skewers. They carve it straight onto your plate. Each of us was issued with a round disc - green side up 'yes please' to more meat and red side up 'no thanks'. regardless of what your colour was, they just kept offering more!! When the maitre d' saw how little we were drinking, he hurried us on to the chocolate fondu and 'please pay the bill my cash desk is closing' - great meal for about 12 quid each!! We then have to find our way back to the marina.... rene spots a monorail and just HAS to take a ride. Luckily it was going in the direction of the island - unluckily, the taxi rank at its final destination was short of taxis. drew decided to head back on the monorail to where we'd come from and join the queue there for a taxi there. meanwhile rene and I decided to get a bit nearer the marina by taking a bus and then walking the rest of the way... as it happened, the bus driver took pity on us and dropped us a bit nearer and a taxi with a pick up at the marina stopped to take us. we got back before drew!
rene crashed out and I came up to the flashy bistro to check the emails as i can't get a signal onboard. it's now 1.45am and I should head back! Tomorrow is sightseeing day...
Well that's it so far - we're not going to Batang it was actually Batam indonesia but the marina is closed for dredging!! so, heading around the coast to somewhere else - malaysian island of tiaman?? then across to Borneo after a couple of days. That'll take a week of sailing - our first long passage and hopefully the wind will be with us - it's been on the nose most of our journey so far so we've been motoring with the sails up ocasionally. Getting down here took 3 night passages and i'll catch you up with that when I connect tomorrow if time allows. The days are flying by but I'm keeping a written log!
Hope you're all well wherever you are!
Thursday, May 8, 2008
still here...
Spending another day at anchor. Jon has to get the immigration clearance and Rene went ashore with him. Spending the time relaxing with a book...
At anchorage
We left the marina today and 'parked' just across the bay. Jon and Drew joined Simon (Sirius) and a gang of expats for a meal at 'wonderland' Rene and I opted for a quiet meal in...
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Shop till we drop?
Last day in Kuah, so had to provision for 3 months of wanderings... Neither the skipper or the 1st mate enjoy shopping so Rene and I put together some meal ideas and I crunched the numbers.
Rene gave Drew a hand to service the generator whilst I prepared the shopping list - he tells me it's just like the engine, only smaller.
Hope I got my sums right or we'll be going hungry at some point along the way... seem to have 34 tins of assorted mushrooms anyway - anyone out there got any good mushroom recipes?? IS there anyone out there reading this??!
Ok, having bought it all, it then needed stowing, after I'd logged just which stowage had what in it. And that was after labelling each tin with its contents - incase the labels come off later! Using a spreadsheet to log everything but I think a hard copy is called for. We'll have to come up with a reliable system when it's our own boat - switching on the Apple mac everytime we want a meal?? I think not!
Walked down to the Jetty point tonight for an Indian and our usual Starbucks coffee (with internet connection)
Leaving Kuah tomorrow for the anchorage around to the north of the island - so goodbye to shower block, happy hour at the bar, and the internet.... and then it's off to Penang, wherever that is! (South I think)
BFN
Rene gave Drew a hand to service the generator whilst I prepared the shopping list - he tells me it's just like the engine, only smaller.
Hope I got my sums right or we'll be going hungry at some point along the way... seem to have 34 tins of assorted mushrooms anyway - anyone out there got any good mushroom recipes?? IS there anyone out there reading this??!
Ok, having bought it all, it then needed stowing, after I'd logged just which stowage had what in it. And that was after labelling each tin with its contents - incase the labels come off later! Using a spreadsheet to log everything but I think a hard copy is called for. We'll have to come up with a reliable system when it's our own boat - switching on the Apple mac everytime we want a meal?? I think not!
Walked down to the Jetty point tonight for an Indian and our usual Starbucks coffee (with internet connection)
Leaving Kuah tomorrow for the anchorage around to the north of the island - so goodbye to shower block, happy hour at the bar, and the internet.... and then it's off to Penang, wherever that is! (South I think)
BFN
Monday, May 5, 2008
Getting to grips with the engine
Aah Drew is patience itself... today's lesson was how to service the engine. 140hp ford Lehman. Ok for those of you who are interested, we changed the zinc pencil in the heat exchanger, plus its two gaskets (improvised from a couple of pieces of cardboard - natty that!) Drained the sump, changed the oil filter without mucking up the bilges, changed the oil - supposed to take 14L but there wasn't much left from an 18L tub... learnt the mechanics trick of stuffing a metal rod into your ear and placing it on each of the injectors. Right. Looks good though.
drew worked on the watermaker -there's a problem with one of the hoses and the pressure gauge... left him to that one!
drew worked on the watermaker -there's a problem with one of the hoses and the pressure gauge... left him to that one!
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Back in port
Well, we survived! Neither of us were keel hauled either!
We sailed (well motor sailed mostly as the winds were not very strong) around to an anchorage in a bay to the north of Langkawi - went ashore for an Italian meal (made a change from Curry) and left for the Thai islands to the north the following day. We've learned the art of dropping anchor in deserted bays off tropical islands and mooring on buoys. Learnt also, what the keel scraping on coral reef sounds like - that was a bit of a shock at 10pm at night... we moored in 5m of water in the early afternoon and it wasn't until we'd hit the sack that the water level had dropped just enough for the coral heads to cause a problem. By torchlight and bow thruster, John and Drew extricated the boat through a narrow channel of deeper water and we moored further away from the island.
The following day, Drew donned scuba gear to check for damage which turned out to be just a few scrapes. Rene went snorkelling and I watched from the boat! The coral reef was superb the colours and the fish were amazing! Just like peering into a giant aquarium tank! The deserted beaches of white sand.... hermit crabs scurrying along the shoreline, stopping to fight over an empty shell - I have never seen so many in one place! The strange night noises of the fish swimming alongside the hull.... saw my first flying fish and porpoises.... saw the Island where 'The Beach' was filmed....
One high spot (literally) of the trip was being hoisted up the mast (by Rene!) to change a light bulb. He then found the energy to haul me right up to the top where I posed for photographs! Well, I wanted proof!!
The next few days will be spent prearing the boat for the trip down to Singapore and then on to Sarawak... drew says the engine and generator need servicing , the bilge pump wants looking at, plus there's provisioning to do - meal planning for May, June and July. Mmm I've said I'll give it a go! I'm going to use a spreadsheet to calculate what we need, as it's too hot to think!
So, for the next few days we have a good internet connection and we'll let you know when we're due to depart.
Love to you all
We sailed (well motor sailed mostly as the winds were not very strong) around to an anchorage in a bay to the north of Langkawi - went ashore for an Italian meal (made a change from Curry) and left for the Thai islands to the north the following day. We've learned the art of dropping anchor in deserted bays off tropical islands and mooring on buoys. Learnt also, what the keel scraping on coral reef sounds like - that was a bit of a shock at 10pm at night... we moored in 5m of water in the early afternoon and it wasn't until we'd hit the sack that the water level had dropped just enough for the coral heads to cause a problem. By torchlight and bow thruster, John and Drew extricated the boat through a narrow channel of deeper water and we moored further away from the island.
The following day, Drew donned scuba gear to check for damage which turned out to be just a few scrapes. Rene went snorkelling and I watched from the boat! The coral reef was superb the colours and the fish were amazing! Just like peering into a giant aquarium tank! The deserted beaches of white sand.... hermit crabs scurrying along the shoreline, stopping to fight over an empty shell - I have never seen so many in one place! The strange night noises of the fish swimming alongside the hull.... saw my first flying fish and porpoises.... saw the Island where 'The Beach' was filmed....
One high spot (literally) of the trip was being hoisted up the mast (by Rene!) to change a light bulb. He then found the energy to haul me right up to the top where I posed for photographs! Well, I wanted proof!!
The next few days will be spent prearing the boat for the trip down to Singapore and then on to Sarawak... drew says the engine and generator need servicing , the bilge pump wants looking at, plus there's provisioning to do - meal planning for May, June and July. Mmm I've said I'll give it a go! I'm going to use a spreadsheet to calculate what we need, as it's too hot to think!
So, for the next few days we have a good internet connection and we'll let you know when we're due to depart.
Love to you all
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
I'm getting too relaxed now?
So much for writing up everyday as I'd planned. Chilling out far too much, obviously.
This is a quick catch-up before the laptop battery gives out on me.
Saturday evening we joined the Hash House Harriers on a run through the jungle. Apparently this is a long standing tradition in former colonies... read up about it here
Basically they are known as 'drinking clubs with a running problem' We ran for about 40 minutes, then got iced water poured over us and were forced to down ice cold beers! Having survived that, we all adjourned to a Thai restaurant for a meal. Pictures are here
it was all good natured fun, the meal was tasty and we had a chance to see a bit of the 'interior' I've never run through a rubber plantation before now!
My son asks how we're getting on with the language. Before we left France I found a really good website that teaches you Malaysian. Unfortunately I just didn't have the time to pursue it. it's just as well that everyone, but everyone, speaks very good english here, however I have learnt 'hello' (apa kabar) and thank you (terima kasih) so using those at every opportunity! Always gets a smile - not sure if that's because they are pleased I'm trying or they find my accent amusing!
Yesterday, Jon the skipper took us both across the island to the Cable Car ride. Now that was something special! I haven't uploaded the photographs yet, but will try to do it before we leave on friday... Yes! we have a date for departure! We'll be spending about a week sailing around the island and the nearby Thai islands to get familiar with the boat. 1st mate Drew has warned us he'll be working us hard!. He seems to be making good progress after his operation.
Today, Drew took us through the boat systems, above and below decks. I just hope he doesn't start asking questions, there is SO much to learn. Remains to be seen how much we've retained for future reference! He's said I can help when he services the engine - now that I am looking forward to. I guess it's just a case of listening and learning as we go along, hell, no-ones born with all this knowledge!
Interestingly, we haven't left port yet and we're finding that we're already thinking hard about what we want in our boat. Plenty of ventilation for a start!! It's like an oven down below and I find it hard to do anything. great excuse!!
Ok, battery is about to die so signing off now. Hope you're all well and coping in that cold weather!!
This is a quick catch-up before the laptop battery gives out on me.
Saturday evening we joined the Hash House Harriers on a run through the jungle. Apparently this is a long standing tradition in former colonies... read up about it here
Basically they are known as 'drinking clubs with a running problem' We ran for about 40 minutes, then got iced water poured over us and were forced to down ice cold beers! Having survived that, we all adjourned to a Thai restaurant for a meal. Pictures are here
it was all good natured fun, the meal was tasty and we had a chance to see a bit of the 'interior' I've never run through a rubber plantation before now!
My son asks how we're getting on with the language. Before we left France I found a really good website that teaches you Malaysian. Unfortunately I just didn't have the time to pursue it. it's just as well that everyone, but everyone, speaks very good english here, however I have learnt 'hello' (apa kabar) and thank you (terima kasih) so using those at every opportunity! Always gets a smile - not sure if that's because they are pleased I'm trying or they find my accent amusing!
Yesterday, Jon the skipper took us both across the island to the Cable Car ride. Now that was something special! I haven't uploaded the photographs yet, but will try to do it before we leave on friday... Yes! we have a date for departure! We'll be spending about a week sailing around the island and the nearby Thai islands to get familiar with the boat. 1st mate Drew has warned us he'll be working us hard!. He seems to be making good progress after his operation.
Today, Drew took us through the boat systems, above and below decks. I just hope he doesn't start asking questions, there is SO much to learn. Remains to be seen how much we've retained for future reference! He's said I can help when he services the engine - now that I am looking forward to. I guess it's just a case of listening and learning as we go along, hell, no-ones born with all this knowledge!
Interestingly, we haven't left port yet and we're finding that we're already thinking hard about what we want in our boat. Plenty of ventilation for a start!! It's like an oven down below and I find it hard to do anything. great excuse!!
Ok, battery is about to die so signing off now. Hope you're all well and coping in that cold weather!!
Friday, April 18, 2008
A week has flown by!
Hard to believe that we've been here exactly seven days. We're both looking less tired - the weather and the routine are working their cure. We haven't been thrown overboard yet so I guess the skipper is happy with our work!
Rene and Jon disappeared into town this morning to get a few provisions, whilst I popped round to see 'how the other half live' as Jane puts it! Nicoletta is a 12m ketch, roomy inside and well organised for two to live aboard. I just love seeing how different folks arrange their space...
Sounds as though we'll be setting off within a day or so for a little sailing around the islands to get Rene and I used to Rallentando then we'll return here for Drew (1st Mate) to see the Doc for a follow up and then, if all's well, the adventure begins (well actually, for us, it started a week ago, but you know what I mean!)
And now, I must catch some zedzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZ
whilst I do that, you can check out a few photos here
Rene and Jon disappeared into town this morning to get a few provisions, whilst I popped round to see 'how the other half live' as Jane puts it! Nicoletta is a 12m ketch, roomy inside and well organised for two to live aboard. I just love seeing how different folks arrange their space...
Sounds as though we'll be setting off within a day or so for a little sailing around the islands to get Rene and I used to Rallentando then we'll return here for Drew (1st Mate) to see the Doc for a follow up and then, if all's well, the adventure begins (well actually, for us, it started a week ago, but you know what I mean!)
And now, I must catch some zedzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZ
whilst I do that, you can check out a few photos here
Languishing in Langkawi!
Made the ferry to UK with 15 minutes to spare, saw the kids and made it in good time for the flight from Heathrow. Arrived at the boat about 1pm Saturday, What a difference from Normandie!! Hot and Humid here.
Early mornings we wash down the teak deck and clean the brightwork. By 11am the sun's too hot to do anything but head for the pool and the shower. Afternoons are spent catching up on emails, reading and recharging the batteries after those frantic days of preparation.
Looks like we'll be setting sail in a few days time....
Jon the skipper is an interesting guy - makes a hot green Thai chicken - i was looking for the fire extinguisher after tonights meal...
The island is lush and green with some interesting insects, beautiful tropical fish in the marina, monkeys by the roadside robbing the bins...
Early mornings we wash down the teak deck and clean the brightwork. By 11am the sun's too hot to do anything but head for the pool and the shower. Afternoons are spent catching up on emails, reading and recharging the batteries after those frantic days of preparation.
Looks like we'll be setting sail in a few days time....
Jon the skipper is an interesting guy - makes a hot green Thai chicken - i was looking for the fire extinguisher after tonights meal...
The island is lush and green with some interesting insects, beautiful tropical fish in the marina, monkeys by the roadside robbing the bins...
Thursday, April 10, 2008
The 11th hour arrives!
We've made it to a hotel near Heathrow!!
I'm so tired I can't get excited yet. Flight takes off at 12 noon Friday and we'll be in Kuala Lumpur 7.30am Saturday.
I'm so tired I can't get excited yet. Flight takes off at 12 noon Friday and we'll be in Kuala Lumpur 7.30am Saturday.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
ohmigod just three weeks then
We are flying to Malaysia, to join a 62' Ketch that will be cruising to Singapore, Borneo, perhaps the Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia....
Better get the vaccinations done then....
Oh, and we have three weeks to pack down the house contents, wind up the gardening business and get ready....
Better get the vaccinations done then....
Oh, and we have three weeks to pack down the house contents, wind up the gardening business and get ready....
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Still cutting grass...
Back to La Boutinais to cut grass... We just manage to get all the gardens done and down comes the rain. Aw shucks, guess I'll just have to stay inside and spend some time online!
I discover 'findacrew.net' and post a profile. Maybe there's someone out there who could use us as crew after we've done our training in June? I apply to 5 yachts....
and I get replies!!! Wow! Dutch Antilles to Scotland in May??? They say you haven't crossed the Atlantic unless you've done it via the Azores!! Mmm perhaps a little too adventurous at this stage?? Walk before we run??
We're tempted to turn our backs on the DIY and we're seriously considering some of the offers that have come in! How irresponsible but what fun ;o)
I discover 'findacrew.net' and post a profile. Maybe there's someone out there who could use us as crew after we've done our training in June? I apply to 5 yachts....
and I get replies!!! Wow! Dutch Antilles to Scotland in May??? They say you haven't crossed the Atlantic unless you've done it via the Azores!! Mmm perhaps a little too adventurous at this stage?? Walk before we run??
We're tempted to turn our backs on the DIY and we're seriously considering some of the offers that have come in! How irresponsible but what fun ;o)
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
We're selling up
The house is on the market (email us if you want to buy a barn with cottage and bread-oven in the heart of rural Normandie!!) and we've spent hours trawling the web, trying to pin down the boat we think we want. I've completed a 'competent crew' course and happily, didn't feed the fish.
There's a lot to learn and the house market is slow at the moment, so we planned to head off to Gibraltar for a couple of weeks sail training in June.
Meanwhile we're down in Tournon St Martin renovating the house we'll be moving to. It's interesting. No inside loo, no shower or bath, no adsl, the electrics have been condemned.... however it is only 2.5hours from la Rochelle! That's where Rene spent his birthday this year, drooling over the boats.
We're decided on a french boat - an Amel Sharki or a Maramu (see them here ) Bluewater cruising yachts, well made, at La Rochelle!
There's a lot to learn and the house market is slow at the moment, so we planned to head off to Gibraltar for a couple of weeks sail training in June.
Meanwhile we're down in Tournon St Martin renovating the house we'll be moving to. It's interesting. No inside loo, no shower or bath, no adsl, the electrics have been condemned.... however it is only 2.5hours from la Rochelle! That's where Rene spent his birthday this year, drooling over the boats.
We're decided on a french boat - an Amel Sharki or a Maramu (see them here ) Bluewater cruising yachts, well made, at La Rochelle!
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
So what brought this on then?
From time to time, René has been heard to say "I'd love a little boat" which I ignored. It never came over as a burning need, more a flight of fancy. Me and a boat? Er, no thanks, plenty of other stuff to do and anyway, last time I was in a boat we capsized. Back in August 07, I saw an ad on a forum – 'boat for sale' sounded just the thing for puttering along the Brittany canals. Turned out it was a renovation project and needed some careful thought so we adjourned to a restaurant and stuffed our faces on Moules et frites in Dinan. Post pudding I suddenly realised that Rene was saying something important... "Are you saying you want to sell up, buy a boat and sail?" I enquired of my husband. A short pause "well yes, I guess that's what I'm saying" A long pause during which time, my life as I know it, flashed in front of my eyes and I gripped the sides of the table in panic. Calm returned and a voice said "well then, that's what we'll do"
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